A Soloist

As one may tell I 'm a Soloist, a Texas Safari Soloist. So far I have competed in three Safaris, finishing two. My first in 1997 with a time of 76 hr., 23 mins. , second in 1999 which I had to pull out at Gonzales due to a total of 22 busters, and my third in 2000 coming in at 72 hrs. 25 mins. When asked which race I found the hardest I had to answer all of them! When racing the Safari as a Soloist the racer has only themselves to help with portages logjams, lighting problems, health problems. For those wanting or thinking of doing the Safari as Soloist I have only two words "Plan" and "Stubbornness". As a soloist you must plan for almost anything and you must be stubborn. Below is a narrative of my 2000 race.

The 2000 Race started on a slightly over cast day, with promise of rain. This year's was a big year with 93 boat teams. Looking at my division there were 21 Soloists, which included 8 kayaks. Although everyone has dreams coming in first in their division I knew I would not but for me just to finish is a big win. Any way a 17'1" Plastic Sea kayak weighting 58 lbs. empty is not the ideal boat to be racing in. However, I found my boat will take an amazing amount of punishment and still be quite fast. Back to the race, it had been raining off and on all day the day before during check in. River water reports have the water raising but not quickly. I'm in row 8 position 4, right in the middle of the pack. My chief worry at the start is getting run over by the faster boats behind. It's 8:55; 5 minutes till start, the boats are lining up pretty well taking into account the current. Prayers are said, good luck wishes are giving, and god watch over me's are muttered. GO!!! 9 am the start is a mad house, the first obstacle is the Railroad Truss, luckily all but one slot is open and everyone (to my knowledge) gets through with no problems. Paddle, Paddle, Paddle, the next obstacle is a low walk over bridge, those with boats running high go left, me with a low profile in my sea kayak go right, bending forward have no problem and lose only one stroke, on to the next obstacle. This obstacle I had planned on, go right, one has to portage with a little problem of some current and a bit of a bottle neck. I went left, 300 yards of more paddling then a portage of 150 yards on a road, for this I brought wheels, man did they work well. As a soloist I was able to run and run fast with my boat trailing behind on the wheels. Then back into the river, under the bridge and onto the next obstacle Vista Rio Dam, a easy for me being in a kayak, I button up and shoot right through, pasting portaging racers and flooded ones. Then BAM, some darn novices who took in too much water on the dam decide to empty their boat in middle river, straight across the river, blocking 2/3 s of the river, I have go to the right and get hung up on the shallow river bottom, but just for a moment then I'm off again. After about 45 minutes of paddling I come to the first big obstacle for a soloist Cummings Dam. While some racers go to the right and portage their boats, others (no soloists) climb up and over the dam the ground 20 feet below. As for me I planned this one, my boat's tough. I climb onto the dam pull the boat on top, (what a pain a fully loaded boat is), easy it down bow first then just holding it by the stern, I drop it. It drops the last 3 feet, burying its bow 6 inches into the ground, turns sideways and is flat on the ground. Then I slide down the near 70-degree column, grab my bowline throw it over my shoulder and run for the water, boat following over the gravel. Back in the river and onto the next obstacle. But hey my trusty Team captain is there thinking of me at Westfield Crossing with fresh water and news; the news is good; "no log jams and water is rising up". And zoom I go to Cotton Seed Rapids. I know in 1997 only three boats made it through these, mine being one and being a soloist I have an Attitude. So I planned a little and scouted them the day before, saw my route, so I got my angle and hit it, shot right through the rapids with no problems. On to the next obstacle, Martindale Dale dam; again the wheels came in handy, not a long portage about 50 yards, got over and back in the river after pumping out a little water (everyone gets some in their boat). Doing great, energy level is high, no cut or scrapes, and not flips so far. Big obstacle coming up and first check point, Staples dam, I get there and my Team captain is no where to be found, after getting out of my boat, running across the bridge to the other side and talking to officials then back to the boat, then back across, to the officials where I get a trusted friend Mike Stinson (Wrote Safari Story) to sign me out and tell my team captain to meet me at next check point. (He probably told the team captain in a nicer way than I would have). On to the next obstacle which pasted in a blur. Then the next check point Luling, I meet my team captain, says I'm going too fast, makes me smile, he gives me fresh water and says "no log jams" and on I go. Luling dam is a blur for me I don't remember going over it or around but I must of. But ho I remember now, a 8 foot drop from a concrete enbutment, then reenter into the river with a fast moving river, man oh man was the dam loud. Then just as its getting dark Ottine Dam arrives, if I had a bad attitude I say *(&^#$*#$^*#$^. Just before arriving, Safety moves the portage exit 100 yards up river on an 8 foot 45 degree plus muddy incline. I arrived just in front of two other boats. Well I was able to get out of the boat then up the 8 foot incline with bow line in hand then I had to the get that darn boat (still loaded) up the 8 foot 45 degree incline, which was muddy also!! Then the 100-yard portage through the woods to the Dam, to find a line of boats waiting to reenter the river. The problem here was a very steep entry into the water. First, one has to get on to two rock shelves, at the same time slowly lower one's boat into water of unknown depth (paddle would not hit bottom). Well after 25 mins. It was my turn, I managed to get my boat in the water after catching some drift wood in my light assembly, got in my boat and guess what? my darn main light would not work. The same light I tested twice on top of this dam. Well with my head lamp as the back up, I made it through some trees back to the main river, paddled for about 1000 yards where I discovered a bridge, at which I was able to pull over and fix my main light. And it's off to the race again. Next obstacle is Palmetto Bridge, I know from past races it can be a pain or if water is still raising it might not even be visible. Well on arrival at Palmetto I come to find no visible sign, it's all under water, also I am happy to find that they have concreted the pathway down to it. A simple turn of the rudder, a stroke or two and I'm on ground. Out of the boat and time for a break. I decide to take a sleep break since they tell me that there is a covered area where we can sleep. Well after two hours and little to no sleep, due to people talking, I say the heck with it and its back on the river. I launch with another boat, a tandem kayak, nice pair of guys, boat # 262 (they said they got the number from the number of miles of the race). Well after another 3 hours of paddling we hit a real pain in the bottom logjam. Can't go right or left. Since I'm in front I get out on the right and scout ahead. Looks like the jam has been here for awhile, in the middle and towards the side tall grasses are growing out of it! I find the portage (think I'm becoming part Indian looking for tracks and pushed down grasses at night). It's up a small incline, about four feet up then 30 yards, and a gentle reentry. Well hot dog!!! I'm off the San Marcos river on the Guadalupe now. The water is slowing already which means the dam is coming up. I know the portage is on the right. Well my fellow paddlers and me finally get to the portage around 7 in the morning. Although it's a bit muddy and grassy my wheels again come in handy making the 300 plus yard portage not to bad. Then I was at the fourth check point Gonzales. I'm a we bit tired but before I sleep I have to fix my main light. After tinkering and playing I find the switch I installed was shorting out (not a marine switch). Well I just removed the switch and hard wired the light. Works like a champ just got to remember to unplug it when not using. After sleeping for two and half hours (that self-inflating mattress works GREAT) I'm back in the race for the long stretch, 38 miles to the next check point. I think I sung every song I knew and more. Ever sing "99 bottles of beer on the wall" by yourself? Well I got down to 17 bottles of beer on the wall till I lost it. Think my mom would be shock with some of the changes I made to some folk songs. But life as a soloist is lonely. Then after hours of paddling I see a boat in the distance. After about 45 mins I caught it, another Soloist in a kayak. This guy was even nuttier than I was. A kayak without a rudder and he was packing a hammock! Well paddled with him awhile then put on a little speed, I finally arrived at Hocheim, and man was I hungry. As soon as I pulled up and got out of my boat, I pulled out one of my special treats " a self-heating meal" pull a string, wait 15 minutes and hot spaghetti and meatballs is served. Yummmmy!!! Then a trip to the port-a-john and back in the river. After about three more hours I see a two person canoe, paddling for about an hour in the what seemed the stillest water, I catch them just as the sun goes down at the Cheapside check point. My trusty side kick better know as Team captain delights me with fresh water and news about the coming Cuero Dam/portage. Well me and the canoe I came in with depart Cheapside, onward onward to Cuero. The take out at Cuero dam was easy but the directions from our team captains were confusing, they both said the blinking light at the Dozer, well the Dozer had a blinking light but so did the lower bank 50 yards to the right of it. Well we committed to the right, down the bank we drug our boats to the calm small lake. Then the fun began for about 15 minutes, we got a little lost in the dark lake of tall water grasses, with frogs jumping here and there, insects make the loudest racket, and the thundering from the dam, we finally find our way out back to the river. Then it's onward to Cuero 236-check point. Arriving at the Cuero checkpoint I have to stop, my muscles are dead tired but more important I am getting the chills. Being a paramedic I know what hypothermia could mean. I pull out my sleeping gear, some food, and go in search for a sleeping place. I'm informed by my team captain (not full of good news this time) that fire ants are a big problem here. But I'm tired and need the sleep, so me and my bright ideas I see the concrete truss connecting the two bridge columns. Its about six feet up, no ants I just know. Well I get my stuff up there and myself, what a pain. Not perfect but, I get the mattress out then the space blanket, stuff myself with food and water, then off to never never land (don't worry I did not forget the Tums). The sun hasn't even crack the sky and my darn internal race clock wakes me. I'm a little stiff, tired, and chilly but lucky no hypothermia. I beat the hypothermia! Eat some food, and then come to find out fire ants like Tums. I left the Tums out about a foot from my feet The Tums were swurming with fire ants, 6 and half feet up on this concrete truss. Man oh man won't these ants give us a break. After another 8 hours of paddling, the team captain told me I' slowing some. NO KIDDING!!!! *#$%#*&^%$#. Sorry the soloist coming out. I arrive at Victoria just as I ran out of water. I need a rest. Eating the last of my special hot meals, I take a nice two-hour nap under a tree, under my wonderful space blanket. A great sweating nap it was. Then after being informed by the friendly team captain of boat # 262 of my very special body odor I was back on the river. This next section is my most hated it seems to go back and forth, back and forth, I just wanted to tell the river to make up its &^%&$# mind, I think I even did a couple times. And then the sound you hear is the DuPont Plant, then you see it. But don't be fooled, it will be at least an hour if not two till you reach the check point because the river seems to have a crazed mind going back and forth, the sound fading in and out. Then finally I arrived at DuPont checkpoint, what a mad house, seems like everyone was taking a break here. Lights everywhere, even kids. I get out a couple of my energy bars, I'm getting to really hate those things, and have a small meal waiting for a boat to pull out. For the next section is through the swamping part and I'm told (everyone had to come up and tell me) about three major log jams one with a lovely sight a beheaded gator. Well after about 20 minutes Boat # 262 the tandem kayak pulls up, after a quick talk to their team captain (she is a lovely lady at that) the guys say they are game on continuing on. So again off I went with 36 miles to go. We pass our landmarks of pipelines and alligator lake with still no sign of a logjam. Then all the sudden we hear large cracking and breaking sounds. Pointing our lights together we see a moving log jam, the main part being a 75-foot long tree, tearing down bushes and trees limps as it passes. With split second timing and unlimitless courage we paddle around this moving danger searching for the next logjam. After about two hours we find the next two logjams have decided to join to make on big one. We pull over to the right and get out our indian tracking skills again , which we have honed to perfection by this time, and find the portage is around 75 yards. Me being the soloist and low man I get to go out on the river first, you see we can't see the main river due to low hanging branches. After eating some leaves I'm back on the river. Oh did I say mention that at this jam we met three mad men in a green flat back canoe they lovingly called the TANK due to it being so heavy. Then darn it,my main light went out, after trying and trying to fix it in the boat I finally told the boat I was with , # 262 that I had to pull over and fix it. Being the great guys that they were (sure hope they weren't afraid to go on by themselves), them said they stay with me, after 10 minutes of rewiring I was back in shape, being a beacon of madness or light which ever. Onward we went at times it seems the sides of the river wanted to squeeze us out by touch. Almost think this was a salalom course. Then civilization the Salt water dam! Man was the echo effect working at 4 in the morning, full sentences could be echoed back. Past that we started to see houses on the left, then finally the last check point Tivoli. Both me and boat # 262 need a break after agreeing on a 30-min break, I found a wonderful spot 10 feet from a generator. What a wonderful sound to put one to sleep. It put us right to sleep, best sleep I had the entire race, even it was only 30 minutes. Then back up and shoved off at 5:45, 14 miles to the finish. After about 30 minutes lights were no later needed. Then finally the last of the Guadalupe, I think it should be called the Guadalupe creek, or trickle because it narrowed so much at times only one boat could get through and that was under branches. Then it opened just a bit and amazing one could see waves coming up the river. We were at the BAY. HALALULA!!!!! HALALULA!!!!! HALALULA!!!!! We pulled over, me to visit mother nature and boat # 262 to stretch legs and snack some chips (wish I had some). Just as I was finishing my paper work here comes another soloist, of all the nerve, pasting me in the last 10 miles because I was going to the can! Well we'll just see about this. Told boat # 262, the tandem kayak, this is where our boats fly boys! They're were made for the sea, let's hit it. By this time that soloist was half a mile in front of me. But I was less than 10 miles from the finish, the seas were a bit up, I was a bit up, and my sea kayak wanted it's taste of the sea. Unlike canoes our kayaks were made for cutting of the waves, getting our bows buried in the water, so we turn our boats on a straight course to the point. My trusty companions in boat # 262 forged ahead, having two paddles to my one. But I was not to be left behind, by time I had arrived at the point I had just past that soloist. The winds and the waves, my boat's friends, were his boat's enemies. At this point I see boat # 262 about a 1000 yards in front on me, straight as an arrow I go (should say as I try to go straight as an arrow) to the finish. My team captain tells me because of the low profile my boat has, many times it looked like I was paddling a wave not a boat, the boat kept on disappearing in the droughs. But finish I did at 72 hrs 25 mins, 15 minutes behind boat # 262. After a nice lovely wonderful alsome shower the cost came in of the race: 9 blusters on the left hand, two on the right, about 100 ants bites on the two legs, a touch of poison something on the left arm, numbness in three fingers in the right hand, and a small case or trench foot.

Not only had I finished solo, I had beaten my 1997 time by more than 4 hours! The question is why and how. The how: is I planned ahead this time, almost covering everything I could need or want. The Why: HOW the *&^#$(*#$*# do I know ??? There is no money at the finish! I guess to say the same thing that those guys say after climbing Mount Everest. "Because it was there"